Nick's Sports Grill

By MIKE PETERS / The Dallas Morning News
SPORTS IS JOB ONE: Ever gone to a "sports bar" and found that the management didn't seem to know that the Rangers or the Stars were playing? Doesn't happen here – not only are there lots of TVs, but the games you're likely to care about are on and the waitstaff knows what's on. And in the bar area, the volume on the "consensus game" is turned up – in case you didn't go to a sports bar to hear, say, Britney Spears. What a concept!
HIGH-SCORING RIBS: If you avoid ribs on cafe menus in fear they will be either fatty or desiccated, prepare for a baby-back surprise. Nick's ribs ($8.95 half rack, $12.95 full) are slow-cooked till they are just crusty on the outside but still plenty tender inside. The savory sauce is a bonus.
BURGERS FUMBLE: On one visit, our server suggested burgers and sandwiches as the restaurant's best fare. She was half right: The Knockout chicken sandwich ($6.95) lived up to its name, a tender chicken breast topped with spicy buffalo sauce and tucked into a fresh bun with melted Swiss, lettuce, and tomato. The guacamole-and-bacon burger ($7.95), however, was like a Hail Mary pass without a prayer. Ordered medium-well, the beef patty was too chewy and nearly tasteless – and the guac didn't bring any excitement to the party. The experience didn't tempt us to try another house specialty, the Garbage Burger ($8.45, topped with a mess of sautéed onions). Regulars seated nearby recommended the chicken-fried steak, which looked great when it came to their table. Onion straws weren't quite "wonderfully thin" as billed, but they tasted fine with their buttermilk dipping and spicy-flour dusting.
GOOD SERVE: Staff is courteous and attentive – and knew which fight was on the tube. Without our asking, they made a point of taking us to a well-lighted table at lunchtime so my newspaper-toting companion could read easily.
BAR BELLE: A special collection of drinks salutes Dallas-area teams. Ranger Tea, combining vodka, gin, and peach liqueur, is a lovely concoction that would have kept us on the bench instead of swinging. The best thing about the bar, though, is the ambience. Cries of "Fumble, baby, fumble!" make it clear you're hanging out with sports buddies on a leisurely afternoon. That's good for a warm, fuzzy feeling – even if the loudest guy in the bar is cheering for the wrong team.
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Published in The Dallas Morning News: 11.29.01