Maple and Motor

In a former gas station turned taqueria, well-seasoned half-pound patties made from fine-ground brisket and chuck with 25 percent to 30 percent fat that adds up to great flavor. Minimal handling yields a loose patty; with the traditional Texas fixin's it's an exemplary burger.

Classic: Burger (with mustard, lettuce, tomato, red onion and dill pickle relish) on a toasted, "grill-shined" bun, $4.50 A-

Over-the-top: Add some chili or a fried egg to the Burger.

Extra: Upstream Sockeye Salmwich, a salmon croquette patty on a toasted bun, with lettuce, tomato and "redneck remoulade" sauce, $5.50

--Dallas Morning News, "Hamburger Mania"