Mozzarella Company

Once upon a time, but not really so very long ago, one could not get fresh mozzarella in this town. Not for love or money.

But then, in 1982, Paula Lambert opened Mozzarella Company in dodgy old Deep Ellum. Lo, a Dallas culinary institution was born. And we ate cheese happily ever after.

In the past 25 years, starting with the Southwestern cuisine revolution, Dallas has evolved into a city that loves its artisanal cheeses. But such was not always the case.

"When I started," Ms. Lambert says, "I couldn't sell my cheese to a single grocery store. Nobody wanted it. And now, look! It's not just Central Market and Whole Foods Market. All the grocery stores have some artisanal cheeses. ... It's been an explosion."

Over the years, MozzCo cheeses have won many culinary prizes and gained recognition worldwide. The only downside to her success, Ms. Lambert concedes, is that having pioneered Dallas' artisanal cheeses, other North Texans have followed her into the fromagerie: There's a lot of competition out there.

"But," she adds with a chuckle, "we can still win the awards!"